Here is the solingen-knife.biz Search Engine
(Partnership with Google):
Here you can find information about "Cutlery". .
Fighting knives (with jumping blade) as well as double-side sharpened knives (daggers, boot knives) may only be purchased by persons over the age of 18.
Manufacturer of kitchen cutlery, accessories, sporting, and pocketknives. Information includes products, company profile, service, and map.A wide selection of stainless steel and silver-plated cutlery, items available individually or in canteen sets. Knives, swords, cutlery, razors and shaving supplies.
Cutlery refers to any hand utensil used in serving, preparing and especially eating food. It is more usually known as silverware or flatware, where cutlery can have the more specific meaning of knives and other cutting instruments. This is probably the original meaning of the word. .
Sharpening your knife
Every knife needs sharpening from time to time. The key to sharpening properly is getting the correct angle on the blade’s edge. There are many acceptable methods for sharpening a knife. We have provided one method with the following instructions. A sharp knife not only performs better, it's actually safer because it cuts easily without forced or awkward motions.
Never sharpen your knife on a power-driven grinding wheel. This can burn the temper from your blade, which will make the edge brittle and more likely to chip or crack.
Cleaning Your Knife
After using your knife, it is a good practice to clean and dry your knife (the entire knife, not just the blade). Even though most of our blades are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel's surface to oxidize. Folding knives should be kept clean of debris, particularly the locking device on lock-blade knives.
We suggest using a professional polishing paste that is easy to use. It removes surface oxidation, rust, tarnish and sticky residues while leaving a protective coating. It is not recommended for anodized, gun blued, or other thin plated surfaces such as etched blades.
Storing and Protecting your Knife
The best way to store your knife is in a vinyl roll with a soft cloth interior. The roll should be unrolled when in storage to allow air-flow. If you want to display your knife collection, cases with felt interiors and Plexiglas® tops are sufficient as long as they are kept out of direct sunlight. The sun will fade the color of the handle. Make sure that you take your knives out of storage from time to time and look them over for rust spots and clean them.
Your knife should also be kept at a constant temperature. If your collection has been in cold weather and is moved to a warm environment, condensation will occur and can cause rust if you are not careful. If this happens to your knives, make sure to wipe them down with a soft cloth.
If you collect celluloid handled knives, keep them separate from your other knives and check them for trouble spots more often. They are made from a petroleum based material which emits fumes that promote rust.
Do not store your knives in leather sheaths for prolonged periods of time or any other leather holders. Leather contains tannic acid that will promote rust.
Parts of a Knife
Back: The unsharpened side of a blade.
Bail: A half loop at the end of some knives; used to clip and carry.
Belly: The curved part of the blade’s edge.
Blade lock: The mechanical part of a knife that engages or disengages the blade of a folding knife. A back lock is the most common (), others have a liner lock or some other mechanism.
Bolsters: Metal covers that are located between the handle and the blades. Also found on the rear of a single end knife; usually made from nickel silver, brass, or stainless steel.
Choil: An unsharpened part of the blade located opposite the point on the sharpened side. .
Clip: An accessory on some knives used to attach a knife to clothing or a belt.
Cover: The material covering the liner between the bolsters.
Crink: A bend at the beginning of the tang of a multi-blade knife that prevents the blades from rubbing one another.
Easy Opener: This is a style of knife handle that has a curve shaped cut out that exposes enough of the blade for the operator to grasp the blades between two fingers for easy opening.
Edge: The sharpened side of the blade.
Edge Bevel: The honed part of the blade that starts after the blade bevel and continues to the cutting edge.
Front/Mark Side: It is the side of the knife with the company logo or the side that the master blade folds to.
Guard: The metal piece located where the blade and the handle meet. It is designed to stop the hand from slipping into the blade.
Handle: The handle of a knife serves several purposes. It serves as a sheath, handle, and spring mechanism. Materials used in constructing handles range from deer antler to bone, hardwoods, synthetics, and various metals.
Kick: A projection on the front end of the tang that keeps the blade from touching the spring. .
Lanyard: A piece of leather or nylon attached to the butt of a knife used for carrying or holding or hanging from the belt, neck, or wrist, sometimes referred to as a thong.
Liner: An interior part of a knife frame located between the handle and blade edge (when closed) used to prevent damage, usually made of a soft metal that resists corrosion.
Liner lock: A lock incorporated into the liner of the handle.
Lock back: A type of knife that has a locking mechanism located on the back of a folding knife. The mechanism keeps the blade open in a safely locked position when open.
Long Pull: This term refers to an extra long nail mark that runs the length of the back of the blade; from the tang to the swedge.
Mark side: It is the side of the blade with the nail slot and company logo.
Master Blade/Pocket Blade: This is the largest blade in a multi-blade pocket knife.
Nail: A pin that holds the knife together.
Nail Mark or Nail Nick: Located on pocket knife blades. It is a semi curved slot cut into the steel used for opening with a thumb nail. .
Pile side: The opposite side to the front or mark side. Also called the reverse side.
Pins: Metal pieces used to hold a pocket knife's parts together. They are usually made of brass or nickel silver.
Reverse: The opposite to the side of the blade with the nail slot and company logo.
Rocker Barlock: A lock that uses a spring and rocker bar with a pawl, to lock the blade of a knife into an open position.
Scales: The two halves of a handle.
Serration: Edge bevel that has teeth cut into the blade.
Shield: A metal inlay on the handle of a knife. It is often placed there as a trademark or decoration. Many times, it will have a name on it or a symbol that identifies the maker.
Slip joint: A term used for a folding knife that does not have a locking mechanism. These knives rely on a back spring for resistance in keeping the knife open.
Spine: The unsharpened edge of a blade opposite to the cutting edge, also known as the back.
Spring: A flat piece of steel kept under pressure by the rivet assembly that holds the blade in an open position. There are one end springs or two end springs. One end springs hold a single blade open, while two end springs hold two blades open; one on each end. .
Swedge: An unsharpened bevel on the spine or back of the blade, usually toward the tip. Click here to see illustration.
Tang: The unsharpened portion of a blade where the handle attaches. Click here to see illustration.
* Full Tang- The steel of the blade extends through the full shape of the handle. This is the strongest of all blade configurations.
* Partial Tang- Tang extends partway into the handle.
* Through Tang- A narrow tang extends through the handle.
* Rat-Tail Tang- A bolt or threaded pommel secures the blade to the handle.
* Half Tang- Approximately ˝ of the handle is the tang.
* Encapsulated Tang- Handle is molded around the tang.
* Push Tang- The tang is pushed into the handle and fixed in place.
Tang Stamp: Any markings located on the tang of a knife. Most often, the stamp will have the manufacturer's name, date identification, or other informative markings.
Walk and Talk: This describes the actions of a pocket knife when opened and closed. The walk describes the feel of the tang as it moves along the spring when the blade is opened. The talk refers to the sound of the knife when the blade is closed. A well adjusted knife "walks and talks" (has a nice strong snap and has blades that slide smoothly across the springs).
|
